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Hi all, Finally after some months have gone by, my build of the Power Supply is done. I have used liquibyte schematic Rev. 8 and had made the cirquit board according to the Gerber.zip file he posted here: 0-30V Stabilized Power Supply Page 88 posted October 6, 2014 "http://electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/29563-0-30v-stabilized-power-supply/&page=88" I left out D10 and R15 as per his description. I have plenty of boards leftover if someone has a need for it. There was only one mistake liquibyte made which have outlined in one of the pictures uploaded here. I was fortunate enough to get a big case with a Toroidal transformer from the scrapyard. Also many parts are recycled from various sources. Regards, William

Finally, my post with the Eagle .sch and .brd, full gerbers, and parts list for Digikey in a zip file. I'm also including many of the pics I took as I was building that were posted both before and after this post. I'm still not completely done and may add more pics later. One thing I have changed is the third transformer for the auxiliary circuitry for the temperature sensor and fans and the displays (I wanted a better transformer than the Radio Shack special I had on hand). Archive attached. 30V.zip

Nice one, I like it.

But even if we disable debug, it will call print method and do not print anything. I mean we should make it something like #ifdef DEBUG Serial.print("\n debug controlled print"); #endif Here when we disable macro, its like code is not written for compiler, code will be removed in macro processing itself.

An H-Bridge (Full-Bridge) driver is quite popular in driving loads such as brushed DC motors and it is widely used in robotics and industry. The main advantages of using an H-Bridge driver are: high efficiency, rotation direction change, and braking the motor. In this article/video, I have introduced a complete H-Bridge DC motor driver using four IR3205 power MOSFETs and two IR2104 MOSFET drivers. Theoretically, the above-mentioned MOSFET can handle currents up to 80A, however, in practice we can expect to get currents up to 40A if the MOSFET temperature is kept as low as possible, using a big heatsink or even a fan. References Article: https://www.pcbway.com/blog/technology/Powerful_H_Bridge_DC_Motor_Driver.html [1]: IRF3205 Datasheet: http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf3205.pdf [2]: IR2104 Datasheet: https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-IR2104-DS-v01_00-EN.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a4015355c7c1c31671 [3]: 1N5819 Datasheet: https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ds23001.pdf [4]: IR2104 Schematic Symbol, PCB Footprint, 3D Model: https://componentsearchengine.com/part-view/IR2104PBF/Infineon [5]: IRF3205 Schematic Symbol, PCB Footprint, 3D Model: https://componentsearchengine.com/part-view/IRF3205ZPBF/Infineon [6]: CAD Plugins: https://www.samacsys.com/library-loader-help

Thanks for sharing your project with us. Could you give more details on the control board?

The original circuit should work fine up to 15V at 1A if you replace the old opamps with the newer higher voltage ones. You probably should recalculate the resistors that set the maximum voltage and current outputs. If the Chinese kit uses the transistor that shorts the opamp output when the power is turned off then the resistors that feed the transistor need to be recalculated for the reduced voltage. I have used perforated stripboard for many projects including very complicated ones. The copper strips are cut to length with a drill-bit and become almost half the wiring of a pcb. The parts and a few short jumper wires become the remainder of the wiring. Only one wire is in each hole so changing a part is easy like on a pcb.

Hi, as promised I made an English translation of my working. Maybe there is few mistakes and I am sorry for that ! Good reading. ExplicationEN.pdf

I use copper wire, not rice wire. They put rice in everything they make, especially batteries.

So Finally which version of schematic is correct / flawless to build the PSU ?

February 23 above on this page has the latest schematic of the revised 3A lab power supply.

Does anyone has LM3914 pspice library? i desperately need it..pleeeeease!

I want to apply force for an extended amount of time (10 secs to a couple minutes) using a solenoid actuator. Unfortunately, it seems that solenoids use a lot of power when they are active. Is there a solenoid type that will only use power when switching between active and not active? There's probably a way I can do this with an external mechanism, but I was wondering if there may be commercial solenoids that have this built-in. Thanks, Jessica

Illegal content (ebook/magazines/software) will be deleted without any notice. Thanks

In a few circuit diagrams i have they refer to a what seems to me is a transistor with B C E as a overload protector and with number A16 and i have looked for a few hours on the net and i can't find anything on this little fellow, Anyone knows what I'm looking for and wanna share that info Please .... Come on !! 48 visits !! some one must know what it is !!! PNP is it also...........

At last i got a theori from a totally different place and he wasn't shure either but he had a weak memory that it could be 1A16 and a PNP transistor but after several deep searches on the I-net it didn't make any kind of senses whatsoever ???

When you use your resistive divider to drop the voltage down to 5 volts, you just need to select values of resistors to limit the current. This is basic ohm's law. V/R. Was this your question or did I misunderstand? I am not sure how you intend to monitor status by using one 5 volt pin. As an interface to the parallel port, you could use an LM3914. This would give you the resolution you need. There are also many other ways to proceed. You need to convert from analog to digital to read anything useful from the parallel port. MP

Hi TJBraza, http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/ADT7485A.pdf Although, it will probably require a small program written in C or Visual basic to convert the string MSB & LSB into a more easier read etc... Take a moment and review the data sheet, the IC has a lot of potential.

I can't find SL100 & SK100 transistor :'( Which transistors can replace these? Thank you for your help~ ;)

Calm down people. It is not Mixos's fault, if it is against the law he has to remove the content. This site is very good for asking electronic related questions, I have yet to find a better one.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?p=2381BG-2-6&fr=opensearch

I ordered a LYG55T024FS52S motor (https://www.hurst-motors.com/lyg55geared.html), but I misread the information about the capacitor. I thought it said capacitor was supplied with the motor, but that was only for the 115 VAC motors. Since I ordered the 24V, mine did not come with a capacitor. So I’m looking to buy one. The spec sheet says I need a 20/15 mfd 50/60 Hz capacitor. This is the closest I’ve found: http://www.mcmaster.com/7245K721/ Will that work for this purpose?

Why not read books that interest you? For example:: Digital Design and Computer Architecture

You did a lot of hard work I must say. For this type of fading effect, I always use Arduino or AVR microcontroller. It is very easy to do this with the PWM pins of the Arduino. But making the project this much compact and without programming really needs good skills. Good work.

You can add a decoupling capacitor. Sometimes, the output waveform can be clipped due to noise in the power supply. Adding a decoupling capacitor between the power supply and the ground can help reduce the noise and improve the output waveform.

As this chip is made by Analog and Analog owns LTspice simulator the circuit appears in the simulator and can be explored there. The circuit there is slightly different. Note it uses the FDS6680A mosfets. If you want 10 amperes make sure the mosfets can handle the current. Go here and put in your requirements then you will see some 10 ampere chips: https://www.analog.com/en/parametricsearch/11491#/p5573=min|24&p5574=100|max&p5347=min|12&p5357=12|max&p5349=10|240&qsfv=vinmin|24_vinmax|100_vout|12_iout|10&p5362=Buck

If you compare your board with the one on Ebay that one looks like the better board. You may gain some insight by comparing the P6? on your board with the three in the schematic and see if it connects the same as one of them. This is the schematic of the Viber12a in a battery charger.

There is information here on Visual Servoing that maybe helpful; particularly the numerous references at the end of the article. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_servoing If you look at a bmp file of a smd image like this one (I could not find an image of the bottom of a smd). You can see the white background as FF FF FF and one scan line across the component highlighted. So in theory one could find the four corners and calculated the rotation and any x y offset. In bmp files the image is inverted. If you only need the rotation then only part of one edge would be required to calculate it I believe. smd compoint.bmp

I’m in the process of a move to an area which I’ve been told has regular power fluctuations and a few power cuts as well. I have been researching how to provide clean and safe power to my electronic components which would include a Denon receiver, 2 Power amps, a Blu-ray player, Projector, gaming console etc. I am contemplating the below options: Option A: Mains to a Voltage Stabilizer to Power Condtioner(Furman) to the electronic components Option B: Mains to an Online UPS(APC) to a Power Condtioner(Furman) to the electronic components Would one of these work? Or is there a better solution to consider?

This is a question always been asked so I try to make this list to cover as many pcb manufacturers as I can. This is a listing of websites making PCBs and also may including PCBAs. I will try to update the infomation now and then. http://www.pcbway.com/ -$5!!! http://www.pcbgeek.com/ http://www.sfcircuits.com http://expresspcb.com/ http://www.apcircuits.com/ http://www.10pcb.com/ http://www.goldphoenixpcb.com/ http://batchpcb.com/index.php/Products http://www.pad2pad.com/index.html http://www.pcbcart.com./ http://www.4pcb.com/ http://www.pcbfinpo.com/ http://www.sunstone.com/ http://www.pmsnewzealand.com/ http://www.ezpcb.com/ezpcbweb3/index.php http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order http://pcbconnect.com/index.html http://www.screamingcircuits.com/Order/ http://www.pcborder.com/site_new/default.asp http://www.custompcb.com/ http://www.multi-circuit-boards.eu/?gclid=CK20v5fFga4CFYZN3godg1in6Q http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?cPath=19_20 https://www.itead.cc/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-service-p-835.html?cPath=185 http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html?p=2&price=-100 - $0.2 !!! https://ecommerce.pcbfabexpress.com/ http://www.goldphoenixpcb.com/ http://oshpark.com https://www.protoexpress.com/ - SierraCircuits http://www.4pcbassembly.com/ http://www.mitchelectronics.co.uk/ http://www.customcircuitboards.com/ http://dirtypcbs.com/ http://www.elecrow.com/special-offer-for-2-layer-1010cm-max-green-pcb-510pcs-p-761.html http://pcbshopper.com/ http://smart-prototyping.com/PCB-Prototyping.html http://www.technotronix.us/ http://www.pcbunlimited.com/ http://store3.sure-electronics.com/ The list is not in any priority. I've never ordered board from any houses. I've just made board with the first two entries. This is a "work in progress". New board houses may be added, along with some comments.

One 2N3055 transistor overheats in the original circuit that used a 24VAC transformer and produces 25VDC at 3A. Therefore I used higher voltage opamps, a 28V 4.2A transformer, a more modern driver transistor Q2 that can be cooled well and two 2N3055 transistors to share the heat on a very large heatsink. Some people added a fan and a smaller heatsink instead of a huge heatsink. If you connect the two 24V windings of your transformer in series and use the centertap as 0V then its output voltage will be 24VAC x 1.414= 34V minus the 1V for the two rectifiers then the supply voltage will be too low because the circuit needs a 28VAC transformer. Your transformer voltage is too high so it cannot be used for this project. Or you could parallel the two 24VAC windings or with the centertap as above then the maximum regulated output voltage will be 25VDC at 3A.

Hi Youkito1991, Nice work!. Thank you for sharing your design and make the PCB available for anyone who wish to use it. Your description is nice and also the support of pictures is very useful. Regards, William

Impressive. It is not easy to charge the 150ah battery with solar panel directly. For proper charging using solar panel you just need to use a solar charge controller. You must also place the batteries in parallel connection for fast charge. Using solar charge controller avoid reverse current flow from Battery to a solar panel and unharmed pannels from burning. For proper charging your solar panel must create power more than 150w 150w is the threshold point for your charging. More the power added ……charging rate improve.

Why are you using an old fashioned vented lead-acid battery? Most circuits today are powered by rechargeable Ni-MH or Lithium batteries that have no acid.

Thanks for the resources!!! I am currently working on the project "Electronic circuits of information collection and processing systems". The topic is very interesting, since I need to investigate the development of the linearizer of the first sensor with smooth and piecewise-linear approximation. It is also necessary to determine the value of the DC component extraction device from the signal of the second sensor. In addition to your recommended resources, I also used the writingcheap.com service, which helped me with the theoretical part of my work of developing an analog-to-digital converter. Using the information of this site http://www.analog.com/en/products/analog-to-digital-converters.html I was able to summarize the results of my research. You have an extremely helpful channel for students on YouTube. You have an extremely helpful channel for students on YouTube.

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I enlarged the image off the Amazon.com but could not read it https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-LCS1620-Lithium-battery/dp/B01M6TQPY2/ref=sr_1_3/141-0275392-4037060?ie=UTF8&qid=1499813460&sr=8-3&keywords=Black+%26+Decker+LCS1620 ...but ebay.com has a readable image http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker-LCS1620-20v-20-Volt-Lithum-Ion-Battery-Charger-NEW-/272090041874?epid=1640405275&hash=item3f59d48e12:g:mf8AAOSwawpXr3eh 120v @60hz 300ma

I use WellPCB quite a bit. They aren't the cheapest, but the quality is superb, they may offer features and service you might need. http://www.wellpcb.com/ If it's only a single board or two I tend to make them myself.

You points are well made; thanks. On day one I found two voltage boosters on Ebay that gave more than 100 volts so I ordered both of them from China. The first one I received was a 12v dc to 200 v dc. After connecting it up and adjusting it for 200 v I put a 100k resistor across the output and got 2 volts output! It took a one mega-ohm load to keep 200 v. The second one (12v dc to 220 v ac) works well. I connected it to the 220v to 120v step down transformer and into a full wave bridge rectifier with a 100mfd capacitor and got 140 v dc; 9.6 volts input. With a 8.4 v NiMH rechargeable battery I get 128 v dc. So I am happy with that and very surprised that the 50/60 hertz transformer works at all!

I buy electronic parts from Digikey and Newark because they have offices and warehouses in my country and they stock everything. What can't you find?

hi... welcome to the forum site. best electronic means that it will show the good features. good means working skills and new features because it explains product quality. I like [url=http://thefarmerworld.tk/agriculturetools.html] modern farming [/url] features. ..............................................................................................................................

Hi all Ok, this is my end result. Built and tested and works quite well. I started with the version posted at the start of this thread. However I had a couple of problems with the current limiter. I didn't have much success with the current limiter clamping the input of U2 - sometimes it would not go right down to 0V, sometimes it would go just below. Just below was a big problem for me - U2 would start to oscillate, with bad consequences for anything connected to the output of the Q4... It would then drive the output high just when I wanted the current limit to become active I should add that I did not use TL2141 or MC34071s, this might be the root of my problem. I fixed this issue with a small change to circuit layout rather than going to expensive opamps. My mods (compared to the circuit posted on start of this thread): * current limit - I removed D9. To replace this, I added another BC548 - the base is driven by the current flowing through the current limit LED. The collector of this BC548 clamps the output of U2 (exactly like the existing BC548 driven by the negative rail). This arrangement means we don't care how close to its supply voltage the output of U3 can go. It avoids the possibility of driving the input of U2 out of spec. Clamping the output of U2 is much more like how the integrated voltage regulators work. It seems better to my mind, to keep U2 out of the loop when current limit is active. [Edit: note that U2 will need a small heatsink with this arrangement] * some rearrangement of the opamp power connections, for all three opamps... U1 & U3 are run via 15V zener diodes, to give a supply of approx 30V. That allows almost any cheap opamp to be used for U1 & U3 (741s or TL071 etc). U2 is connected to unregulated 44V and to the output side of the 0R47. * I used a MC33171 opamp for U2. It is high voltage, but much cheaper (they are £0.60 in UK) than TL2141 or MC34071 (both are £5 here). It is a low power IC by comparison. * 0-30V 4A transformer. * 2 x 6800uF smoothing caps.a big thanks to the contributors on this thread for their efforts, my project was greatly speeded up by borrowing a lot of their ideas Edit: * I also changed the 0R47 to 0R2, as the 0R47 generated too much heat at 3A for my liking. This also means R18 changes to 330K. These two values are not shown on the schematic here.

Hiya, I now cant find the projects I found yesterday sorry... but the below link is a device similar to what I'm looking for, but I'm looking to make this work in reverse (hoping this may help). The distance I'm trying to achieve would be for the alarm to activate if transmitter was anything from 0-10 feet away. http://www.pimall.com/nais/rdiftagalert.html

The output of a preamp will produce clipping distortion if the input level is too high. The pickup from an electric guitar produces a level much higher than an FM tuner, a CD player or an MP3 player. Most preamps for a guitar pickup use a Jfet because of its very high input impedance with a gain of only about 1.4 times.

Nobody makes an LA4058. You got the numbers mixed up, the schematic shows a Sanyo LA4508. Your 13.6V transformer must feed the rectifiers on the Power Part of the schematic. Maybe you fed the transformer wrongly to the amplifier instead of to the rectifiers? Then probably many parts are destroyed. Your 13.6V transformer will produce a peak of 19.2V and the rectifiers reduce it to +17.2V. With a 17V supply the LA4508 produces about 6W at clipping into 4 ohms per channel. Who told you 100W? It has fairly high distortion at low and high frequencies and it cuts frequencies above only 5kHz. Your amplifier probably uses one LA4508 for left woofer and left tweeter and the second LA4508 is probably used for right woofer and right tweeter.

Hi all, I am looking for a circuit that operates in 9-12 DC and will generate voltage in 2-3KV range with negiligible current. I came across many designs but interested if anyone knows any circuit that uses common step down transformer with primary and secondary reversed as the first step in conversion.I am planning to use Cockcroft–Walton multiplier to increase the voltage from transformer. Flyback transformers are difficult to find /not familar for me to use.But would defenitely consider if its readily available I came across this circuit and like to know if something similar can be tried with a step down transformer http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/flampdrv.asp If anyone know any schematic with small flyback transformers I would be glad to try.I am only concerened about availability. The whole purpose is to make a negative ion generator to clean dust from my vinyls. I donot want to use the ones based on Pizo electric but somehing that will generate a massive negative ion flow that will neutralize all sticky dust on my LPs .The prime consideration is making it as small as possible.

After running across this at the public library in town, I just had to order my own copy: "Practical Electronics for Inventors" by Paul Scherz It covers just about everything from DC to Microcontrollers and is well illustrated.

Hi Gruber, The current-setting pot in this project has a tolerance of 20% and the values of the resistors were chosen so it provides 3A if the pot's resistance is 20% high. If your pot's resistance is 20% low then with it set to max, the project will try to produce 4.2A. Such a high current will overload the transformer and cause its core to saturate. A transformer with a saturated core isn't a transformer anymore, it is a piece of wire across the mains, blowing fuses. You should add a trimpot in series with the current-setting pot. Adjust the trimpot so the project supplies a max of exactly 3A when the current-setting pot is at max.

;D thank

Think of the commas as periods or the periods as commas. These are used differently in different continents. It means the same. MP